To Camp, or Not To Camp, That is the Question

My new way of being is of openness, confidence, and joy. I give up that I am controlled by fear and that I do not deserve to be loved. That is who I am.” — my Baptiste Yoga mantra 

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When you read my posts and imagine my journey – what do you see? Perhaps me roaming freely in the wild, setting my camp up late after I cannot travel any longer. Can you see my breath on cold nights, the steam as I douse the last embers of my fire, the throbbing pulse of the stars lighting my way to my tent, the stillness of the chaparral as I drift into dreams?

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The first day of this trip I went to REI and bought a beautiful brand-new tent. I was proud of it and the adventures I’d have with it. When I went to check-out the woman at the register eagerly asked me, “Where are you headed tonight?” I didn’t know, so I asked her where she thought I should go. She stopped, got lost in a thought, and began to almost smile. “The Great Sand Dunes.” The longer she contemplated the Dunes the happier she seemed to grow: “Oh! There are so many beautiful camp grounds there.” It was spring now on her face. “You must be excited to camp tonight?” I fidgeted. “Well, it’s supposed to be awfully cold…” Sheepishly I went on, “So… I’ll probably just stay in a cheap motel, and then do it later.” She rolled her eyes and shrugged. 

After this embarrassing beginning, my REI bag has been getting ripped to shreds. Not from use exactly. More from each time I shove my suitcase back into my trunk and it catches the corner of the bag after another night at a La Quinta or Best Western. 

So, why haven’t I been camping? Well, I’ve had all sorts of reasons:“It’s been an unseasonably cold spring in the Southwest.” “It’s hard to get the right permits”; “Will other people in camp sites think I’m weird if I’m alone”; “I’m tired today, better get a good night sleep, maybe tomorrow?”; “Do coyotes ever eat campers while they are asleep?”

And so, last night was no different. I’d driven out to Alstrom Point overlooking Lake Powell. To get there requires a 4x4 as the last hour of the drive is a mixture of sand and slip-rock. I went slow and got near the end, but had to stop two miles before the point because that portion required high clearance.

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Alstrom Point was a recommendation from Oliver and Harriet (mentioned in the last post). When I arrived and looked down at the waters, I gasped. The water was still, mirror like reflections where I’d expected blue.

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Later the winds picked up and rinsed the sandstone from the water’s surface. Now, I was struck by the starkness of the stone above the water. In Minnesota lakes are signs of vitality and life - tall grasses and taller trees. Here, no sign of trees, only stone upon stone.

From my high vantage I could watch the shapes of rain too — from cloud to ground — calligraphy on a parchment sky. 

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With the sun at my back, I looked east over the lake, watching the sunset transform the colors of rocks below. There were others photographer’s there too, each one of us perched atop our own rocky outcropping, each one of us madly adjusting our ISOs and shutter speeds with the changing light, gripping our tripods firmly, jumping from stone to stone, looking for new angles, searching for ways to grasp and hold the deepening oranges, purples, and blues before they faded into dusk.

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Caption: (New Friends met on the trail 1 of 2) This is Peter, a doctor from Albuquerque, who in his free time leads bespoke photo tours of the Southwest. I asked him when he got into photography, “I got my first camera at 7 and my first SLR at 14. T…

Caption: (New Friends met on the trail 1 of 2) This is Peter, a doctor from Albuquerque, who in his free time leads bespoke photo tours of the Southwest. I asked him when he got into photography, “I got my first camera at 7 and my first SLR at 14. The rest is history.” Peter had ALL the gear, including a whole bag of filters for multiple types of lenses. He also had the most tricked out Jeep I’ve ever seen. He said he spent 5 years working on it. You can check him out at his website: boehringerphotography.com

Caption: (New friends met on the trail 2 of 2) this is my new friend Ken, a chemist from LA. Though he shoots Cannon (forgive him), Ken knows the technical aspect of digital photography inside and out. I learned a lot, and laughed even more, talking…

Caption: (New friends met on the trail 2 of 2) this is my new friend Ken, a chemist from LA. Though he shoots Cannon (forgive him), Ken knows the technical aspect of digital photography inside and out. I learned a lot, and laughed even more, talking with him during both the sunset and sunrise.

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As the sandstone cliffs transformed from carmine to vermillion, vermillion to waning hues of gray, I finally turned to look west and saw the sun had disappeared for the night for good. I packed my bag and turned to go. These other photographers had all set up camp near the point, but I still had two miles back to my car in the dark. I hadn’t eaten. It was at least two hours to a motel. I had no reservations, no plan. Where should I go – south to Page or west back to Kanab? 

I thought about camping. But my amorphous fears kept whispering to me reasons why I should drive away. Yet, I said to myself, This isn’t quantum mechanics. Little children camp by themselves. I have a tent. Why don’t I use it?

I once read an ancient Buddhist adage that goes something like this: “If you want understand how you are elsewhere -- observe how you are here.”  

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As I walked in the growing darkness, that saying kept looping in my mind. Like a flagellant’s whip, I wielded the phrase skillfully, driving it into my back again and again to cut ever deeper at my pride. With each recitation, each new lash, a new memory of shame would be conjured up. I remembered classes I didn’t take, languages I gave up, jobs I didn’t apply for, friends I didn’t pursue, tasks at work I didn’t do, artistic projects I never started, conversations and conflicts I avoided.

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But then another more recent memory came to me. Earlier in the day I’d talked to my friend Kat. We’d been partners for one of the most pivotal self-inquiry exercises during my Baptiste Teacher Training in Sedona. As I was giving voice to my deepest fears about myself - she’d held space for me, saw me, and had great compassion for me. Her love in that moment helped change my life. Since training we’ve been touching base every week to ask each other - “Where is your old story emerging?” and, “Where are you experiencing resistance?” But yesterday she asked me a new question, “How are you living your new truth?”

On this journey it’s become clear to me that without inquiry of the past I cannot break my old patterns, and without breaking my old patterns I cannot grow into the person I want to become. And yet, what I suddenly saw is that self-understanding is only half of the equation (at most). The point of understanding the past is to help let it go – not to meditate on it endlessly, finding ever more ways the patterns were always there. If I want to transform — I must understand so that I can let go, AND act in new ways now.

In her questions she was reminding me to ask myself when I’m struggling – “Do you remember who you ARE? I don’t care who you WERE. How can you affirm your new self in this moment?”

For me, that’s all I needed to drop the whip. What does it matter what I didn’t do before? Just do the thing now. 

I actually started to jog toward my car, a weird feeling of internal warmth, a glow of excitement to set up my camp site, to sleep in the cold.

I’ll be honest. I didn’t sleep particularly well. I kept worrying about phantom footsteps in the dark. I couldn’t find a comfortable position for my body. It was so cold (36F when I woke up) that I slept with 3 layers on as well as a hat and mittens. And despite all that, I did the thing. And when I unzipped the tent at 5:45am to run the 2 miles back to the point for sunrise, I felt stupidly happy about everything. Happy to hear Lark Sparrows sing, happy to see stars, happy to watch them fade into blue. But more than any of those things, I felt so empowered to say yes to whatever emerged before me. I hadn’t realized how much psychic energy this small (unfounded) fear had been holding over me. And now that it’d been released - I felt so freedom, so much joy!

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I made it to the point with less than a minute to spare before sunrise. 

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An hour later I left the point to do that 2 mile walk yet again. This time, no more darkness. This time, my back bathed in a warm light. This time, with joy and hope in my heart. And with each step I thought, “I AM open, I AM confident, and I AM joyful. How will I live these truths out today?”

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Post script – if you are enjoying these posts, I’d love to hear what is resonating with you. And if you think someone else would enjoy them, please consider sharing them. As I wrote above, part of my life work right now is finding ways to affirm living with openness, confidence, and joy. Sharing myself and my journey through this medium, both with people I love and those I’ve never met, is an expression of that. And more importantly, in this sharing I’m discovering an ever growing sense of grounding, purpose, and life.

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Underneath A Juniper Tree

When I woke up there were two turkey vultures circling so closely overhead I could see not only the whiteness of their under-wings and the redness of their beaks, but I could also hear the sound of the wind passing between their feathers. 

“Hey, I’m not dead!” I groggily shouted at them. 

I was propped against a juniper tree, enjoying its shade. I checked my watch. It was 5pm, and I’d been sleeping for an hour. I didn’t know where I was exactly, having wandered about 30 minutes into the chaparral away from the nearest trail to this spot earlier in the afternoon. But the longer I sat there, the happier I felt. So, I just kept sitting, breathing, not moving. In that silence, I watched a Pinyon Jay land on another juniper. Then a second. And soon a flock – iridescent blue, fingered feathers – flitting tree to tree, branch by branch. Like a desert wind they floated into my world unexpectedly and shook me, but as quickly as they appeared, they were gone. Later, a herd of antler-less elk appeared. I wanted to hold my breath to steal a few extra seconds with them. But, one saw me. Looking at me quizzically, he craned his neck, snorted a little, and turned, leading the others away in a half-hearted canter. 

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I was alone in the wilderness, and I’d rarely felt so full.

When I started this journey, someone told me he didn’t understand why anyone would travel alone. “I don’t see the point of experiencing something if you have no one to share the memory with. It’s like if a tree falls in a forest and there’s no one to hear...”

I understand where he is coming from. Completely. I’ve felt that way in the past too. I remember traveling alone several years ago and feeling an acute sense of isolation after just two days. After having spoken to literally no one in 24 hours except waiters, I remember eavesdropping on nearby tables at my hotel in case there’d be some moment I could jump in. How embarrassing… 

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And yet, this time, it feels so different. Of course, there are moments when I feel acutely lonely. Of course, there are moments when I’m griped with sadness. But my commitment to traveling alone has been opening up so much for me. I think it is because traveling alone has given me the space to redefine my relationships with 1) myself, 2) the natural world, and 3) others.

At first, in the hours of silence, I had to face myself, as I am, not as I want to be seen. As an unconscious people pleaser and a flirt, it’s been easy for me to contort myself into whoever I think the person I am with wants me to be. It’s been easy for me fall into despair if I wasn’t being adored. 

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But when I’m alone for hours and hours at a time, out of cell service range, no music in my ears, free of distractions and people to please, that is a much harder trick. This can be excruciating. In the worst moments of shame and fear I can want to desperately find reassurance elsewhere – but miles off the path, amid the chaparral, the hawks and elk aren’t likely to tell me I’m beautiful. There’s no one to comfort me, but me. I must stand with myself, as a I am. In time, if I sit with the discomfort long enough, it always goes away. I’m enough. As are you. I don’t need to pretend, and I don’t need to be afraid of being alone. Nor do you. I am learning I am capable of finding peace with myself when I alone, and it’s been extremely empowering.

From this place of confidence, I’m also beginning to see how much control I have over my emotional well-being too. For instance, while I cannot control when I feel sadness, I can control my reaction to it. I can wallow in it. I can succumb to hopelessness. I can try to let it go. Similarly, I cannot control when I feel happy, but I can cultivate a practice of gratitude, even when I’m feeling sad. In this, I’m finding traveling alone isn’t just making me feel more confident, it’s making me feel more powerful. 

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Traveling alone has also taught me to live in the radical now. By illustration – how many times have I been on a hike and midway through my mind wanders or I check my phone? It’s so hot. How long do I have to go? When will I hit those the hills we have to climb? I’m so hungry. I wonder how I’ll ever patch things up with my friend? I have so much work, I need to get back and do it. Do I have service yet? Do I have any new emails or likes to my post? … How often? More than I wish to admit. But stepping back, I see now, it’s not just on the trail, but it was also in my office, in meetings, on phone calls, on my yoga mat, and at dinners with friends I care deeply about… 

In contrast, traveling alone has given me the space to practice observing what is emerging before me right now, and simply staying with that. This is the opposite of how I lived my entire life up to this point – with obsessive planning on how to create happy outcomes elsewhere, later. Or obsessive checking for additional external stimuli elsewhere. When I do those thing I often fail to see the complexity and enchantment that’s always already been at my feet (even amid the awkwardness, hunger, brambles, and the sand storms). I’m seeing now that I’m often surrounded by serendipity, it’s just I didn’t sit still enough through the discomfort to see it; didn’t hold space for it to emerge in its own way. 

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When I simply sit still -- confident of myself, free of the need for attachment, holding space for whatever (or whoever) is before me, as I did on the juniper’s trunk -- I’m finding fantastical, irrational, imprudent, overflowing reservoirs of wonder, love, and joy. So much more connection is available in this moment than can ever be planned for tomorrow. The world is so much more beautiful and complex than any dreams I am capable of fathoming on my own. 

Traveling alone is giving me chances every day to practice this. And though I still often fail – more and more I’m finding myself found in rapturous enchantment with strangers and the world alike.

Caption: Moonrise over The Grand Staircase Escalante

Caption: Moonrise over The Grand Staircase Escalante

Caption - new friends I met on a trail (1 of 3). This couple (Oliver and Harriet) shipped their army style camouflaged camper from Berlin and are touring the US for a full year. Asked why now, Oliver said their daughter is gone for the year on an ex…

Caption - new friends I met on a trail (1 of 3). This couple (Oliver and Harriet) shipped their army style camouflaged camper from Berlin and are touring the US for a full year. Asked why now, Oliver said their daughter is gone for the year on an exchange program. As Oliver said this, Harriet made a fist pump of joy.

Caption - new friends I met on a trail (2 of 3). Gail (on the left) retired 2 years ago and has been exploring the US in her camper ever since. She’s driven 50,000 miles and hiked 9,000 miles since her retirement party. Her friend Elizabeth (right),…

Caption - new friends I met on a trail (2 of 3). Gail (on the left) retired 2 years ago and has been exploring the US in her camper ever since. She’s driven 50,000 miles and hiked 9,000 miles since her retirement party. Her friend Elizabeth (right), is visiting her this week. She was wearing Williams headband (my alma mater) not because her son went there, but because the purple cow “reminds her of Swiss chocolate… I hate logos, but I LOVE chocolate”. She noted (half proudly, half-ruefully), that her son had just left his job too. “They must teach you to live a life full of meaning at Williams…”

Caption - new friends I met on a trail (3 of 3). I helped encourage (and hoist) both of them up the entrance into Peek-a-boo canyon after she was about to give up. After she’d made it to the ledge, the woman began to tell me all about her son and ho…

Caption - new friends I met on a trail (3 of 3). I helped encourage (and hoist) both of them up the entrance into Peek-a-boo canyon after she was about to give up. After she’d made it to the ledge, the woman began to tell me all about her son and how last year when they visited him they went climbing together. He set up routes for her. She said she climbed a 90 feet wall that day. She couldn’t believe it, but her son knew she was capable of it - when her feet touched the ground at the end she burst into tears - but she did it. She paused, no longer shaking, a wide smile across her face: “You remind me of him.”