What's Next?

Anniversaries can bring up intense emotions, especially when you are least expecting it. And this week (the one year anniversary of the beginning of my solo wanderings) was no exception. 

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I remember the moment when is began so clearly. I was in Sedona, Arizona. That morning, I finished my week long Baptiste training. I felt empowered, but at the same time, I didn’t want to go out entirely on my own, so I’d arranged to spend my first “solo travel day” exploring the mountains with two friends. We spent the day hiking, eating, and talking. But by dinner, as I knew the two were about to leave me for some romantic time between themselves, I still had no plan of what was next. Maybe I’d just stay in town and crash their adventures again the next day? Perhaps, but where would I sleep that night? I hadn’t yet booked a place to stay.

Not wanting to be rude and use my phone in front of them, I went to the bathroom of the restaurant and scrolled through options on hotels.com. But I was appalled how expensive everything that came up was. Sure, I could afford it, but it wasn’t consistent with my values or budget. I couldn’t stomach the idea of spending two hundred dollars on a hotel for myself when I was unemployed. But after a few minutes of searching, and feeling that I’d been in the bathroom too long, I decided to put my phone away and go back to the table still without a plan. 

When we got the check, my friend Kat asked, “where are you staying?” to which I shrugged, and admitted, “I don’t know.”

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After hugging them goodbye, I got into my car, turned on the ignition and I felt a moment of panic. What should I punch into the GPS? And then, what am I doing with my life? How could I not have a plan or place to sleep at 8pm at night? I decided to just start driving north. There must be tons of cheap motels nearby I reasoned. (You know the roadside ones that look seedy, with one of those red flashing “vacancy” signs? I’d never been in one, but I assumed they couldn’t cost that much. Right?) Soon I found those motels, but instead of “vacancy” they all also flashed “No”. As I kept driving through the dark, the buildings became scarcer, and the road started to climb, at first gradually then sharply in rapid switchbacks. Without warning, thirty minutes up the mountain, it began to snow, hard (yes in Arizona!). I couldn’t go more than 10 miles an hour. I had no idea if things were about to get worse.

What was I doing driving up a mountain road to nowhere in the dark in a snowstorm? I wanted pull to the side of road and study the map, but not only did I have no signal - it felt unsafe to get near the edge in the dark. Should I go back? No… Not to mention the impossibility of turning around on the steep slippery roads, I was now an hour outside of a town where I knew there was nothing affordable. Go forward? What choice did I have?

Several hour later, after 11pm, I finally found the kind of motel I was looking for near the south rim of the Grand Canyon. There was no going back to see my friends the next day. I was now definitely on on my own, and still without a plan. 

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~~~

One year ago… how strange a thing time is. That night feels like a different lifetime. I’ve tasted so much more of life this year than I had in my entire adulthood before. For all of it, I feel an overwhelming sense of gratitude. This year has opened up so much for me: so much of it unexpected, so much of it unplanned.

After a decade of meticulous plotting, carefully crafted choices meant to demonstrate my cunning, and which I thought would please all the right people, but which culminated in serious of spectacularly stupid mistakes, I felt beyond saving. As I thought about the future, on the one hand, I was too tired to plan. On the other hand, I intuited that putting myself into a situation without any of the old guardrails might help me discover how limited my old views of the world had been, and in so doing offer me a possibility for fuller life beyond my current comprehension. 

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So much of that has turned out to be true. The road has been a constant, if not always gentle teacher. I am not the same person who set off from Sedona a year ago; I hope and believe that has been mostly for the better.

And yet, so much that I hoped the road would teach me still has felt out of reach, especially: “What’s next?”

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~~~

I know other people in my life are also aware it’s been a year. Over the past few weeks I’ve been getting an increasing number of oblique (and sometimes not so oblique) questions like, “So… how much longer are you planning to travel?” or “No pressure, but have you given any thought to what’s next?” or my favorite, “How much longer do you plan for this to go on?”

Sometime it feels as if the questioners fear that I’ve gone crazy, and without an intervention (right now!) I might slide into such an intractable resistance to ever re-joining the conventional working world that it’s only a matter of time until I go full Christopher McCandless and die in the Alaskan wilderness or become a full-time hobo riding the rails. 

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I joke. Sort of. I know these questions come in part from a place of love. I know too, they cut so deep because they give voice to my own doubts. I struggle with these same questions internally, ALL THE TIME: 

Am I doing the right thing? Does this still make sense? Has the journey taught me all it’s meant to? Am I fully taking advantage of this unique opportunity or am I wasting it? What would it mean for me to finish this well? What would ensure this period of my life really meant something?”

Sometimes, I can get so worked up by these questions that I withdraw from the world to think alone for hours on end. I imagine choosing one path, then obsess over all the ways that choice could be wrong. So, I switch, and I imagine taking a different one, but then I find I cannot help but obsess on how option two will keep me from some other goal I think I should be pursuing too. Inevitably, I make no thoughtful decisions, and feel completely overwhelmed. Sometimes, like that first night, I get lucky. Other times, I shut down and turn to “productively” spending my time by watching prestige TV, reading in depth stories about the pervasive corruption in the Trump’s universe, texting friends, or scrolling for hours on end through Instagram. 

Of course, deep down, I know when I do this I’m being avoidant, and that I’m actually caught up in a shame cycle. It’s not lost on me how unique of a gift it is to have the resources and freedom to be able to go on an adventure like this. Sometimes, I feel shame for having used this privilege and still not fully figured out my life. And then in thinking that I can feel fear that the whole thing was actually a careless, hedonistic, and reckless thing to do. Others much more worthy than me would kill for the opportunities I had and threw away. Moreover, it’s not infrequent as of late for me to find out about some former colleague and acquaintance who’s since been promoted or made a small fortune while I was “finding myself.” Will I wake up one day to find I sabotaged my future? 

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I feel like perhaps I’m being over-dramatic. It’s not like I’m stuck in these doubts all the time. Sometimes, I feel completely at peace about this ambiguity. Such are the mysteries of the mind. Moreover, in the last two months, I’ve done quite a bit. I’ve explored six National Parks, made several new soul friends, connected with many family members in profound ways, learned new skills, and felt many moments of wonder and peace. But more and more, my self-doubts about “what’s next” have been leading me to feel adrift, write less, and hide myself emotionally from the people I expect will be disappointed in me. 

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This week after yet another night spent endlessly debating alone in my mind, “what’s next?” I found no answers. So, having no better idea, I put away my phone, sat on the floor, closed my eyes, and tried to meditate without any app or script. 

At first, my mind refused to be still. I felt awash in my questions, overwhelmed by my indecision. But then, from nowhere, and for no discernible reason, I found myself seeing my fears as though they were people, and I was looking at them from afar. In a voice that was my own I heard myself say: “Oh, hello shame” then: “Oh, hi fear. I see you’ve decided to visit too.”

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I felt a momentary clenching in my chest, but just as quickly as it came on it released. I was smiling. Then I was laughing to the empty room. How silly! Looking around my mind, I found they were not alone. Parts of my personality I hadn’t even noticed were missing began to emerge – the part that dreams, that part that plays, that part that laughs, the part that stares at the stars in wonder, and the part that loves to play with puzzles even before I know an answer can be found.

Had I gone crazy? Perhaps. 

But what I saw in that moment was it hasn’t been reason, but fear and shame which have been setting the terms on the possible solutions I’ve explored. And in only consulting with them, I’ve been cutting myself off from so many other parts of myself (like creativity and trust) which might have helped me find different ways to go. 

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In this, I’m not saying that fear is bad and should always be overcome. Fear can protect me from many dangers and reckless selfish decisions; but it alone cannot be a source of creativity, imagination, or connection. Healthy expressions of those are only possible when fear is but one (and not the only) of the perspectives which I consult. 

So, did this moment of laughter and epiphany immediately solve all of my questions? Of course not. I still feel very much in the work, but with my vision freed I do see it a new light: 

Am I doing the right thing? Has the journey taught me all it’s meant to? Am I fully taking advantage of the unique opportunities before me? What would it mean for me to finish this well? What would ensure this period of my life really meant something?” 

These are not just question about my “sabbatical” (or walkabout as I’m now thinking about it)– these are the fundamental questions of what it means to live a good life. 

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Perhaps that insight should have made the contemplation of them weightier, but instead, I’m finding freedom in it. I know there is no perfect life or way to navigate it. Why did I think it’d be different for this journey? Seeing this, I feel freed to move back into action knowing that my choices will be imperfect. Moreover, I’m seeing it as a gift: a chance to provisionally answer the big life questions by testing hypotheses about them in this context. In this light, the more mistakes I make, the more I can learn, and the greater my chance of living a life I feel satisfied with when it’s done. The only wrong paths are those which will give me no new data, like choosing to stay in my head, treading old paths that brought me misery, or drifting along without intention.

Seeing the remainder of my journey this way (as a metaphor for life itself) has also freed me to feel more at peace with its eventual end. The question for me now isn’t should I fear what’s next, or can I stretch it out forever, but rather, knowing it will end, how do I want to spend my energy in the time I have left? 

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And here is my provisional answer: with intention in all I do, a heart full of gratitude, prioritizing my creativity, willingness to make and learn from my mistakes, space to experience new things, surrounded by beauty, and connected in love to others as they are (not as I want them to be). 

What does this have to do with my walkabout, and what might it look like specifically, you ask?   

For now, I’ve decided it means publicly affirming my goal of seeing ALL 62 US national parks. I do not believe that checking each park off the list is what will make the journey worthwhile, but I do believe that the organizing frame of it will bring me to places I wouldn’t otherwise explore, and that it creates a container in which I can live out the values I’m trying to embody in novel ways. It also means I’m setting a deadline on myself to complete this work by summer’s end. By limiting the amount of time I’m giving myself, I believe it will encourage me to get out of the drift, and be more intentional in how I use this time. Once I’ve seen them all, I will write a book about the journey and sell my photographs. And lastly, while I plan to continue to invest in businesses for myself (as my former jobs trained me to do), I plan shift my vocational focus toward helping others grow, most likely by first pursuing a graduate degree in psychology or holistic counseling.

Will this be exactly how my future plays out? Of course not. Already in the week since this plan began to coalesce I see how the corona virus’ spread could make it potentially impossible for me to see many of my remaining parks in my desired time frame. But who knows what next week will bring.  

So what’s next? Stepping into that uncertainty, with conviction about my principles, and assurance that things won’t play out exactly as I imagine … that’s what’s next.

Note: all images in this post are from Saguaro National Park in Tucson, Arizona and were taken in January of 2020.

Note: all images in this post are from Saguaro National Park in Tucson, Arizona and were taken in January of 2020.

Petrified Forest National Park

The Petrified Forest is most surprising National Park I’ve visited yet. Below is the story of how I was forced to crawl to my car, made completely false assumptions about what I was seeing, realized I was wrong, and how the experience is making me reflect on my life more broadly. Read on below…

I was tired when I got to this park and the weather was awful. It was clear storms were near and as I entered my car was shaking the winds were so strong. Though it wasn’t raining yet, the wind alone made being outside feel like I was one of those weather reporters you see on TV giving the live updates on a nearing tropical storm as their clothes flap about this way and that. At one point when I opened my car door the door leapt out of my hand and slammed open the rest of the way so violently I was afraid it’d rip off. Later, determined to push ahead no matter what, I decided I’d go on a short 1 mile hike. I only got about 500 feet from my car. Afraid I would fall over, I had to drop to the ground and (literally!) crawl back to my car.

Despite that - the park was full of surprises - for instance, despite the name “Forest” in the title - it is in the middle of an arid desert. I saw only a handful of live trees in this entire park. The park covers 260 square miles, with a single 30 mile road running through it. There is almost no available hiking. And despite the name “Petrified Forest” - you don’t see a single petrified log until you are past halfway through the the drive. I drove through in about an hour (including stops).

I stopped at the museum at the end of the 30 mile road mostly because I had to use the bathroom. But - wow - am I ever glad I did! After spending 40 minutes in the musuem, I finally realized what I’d been looking at and got to see the petrified wood up close. The painted desert isn’t just “neat looking” - it is a visual record of our geological history, choke full of fossils of flora and fauna. Moreover, the different colors in the hills aren’t just beautiful - each layer is a record of MILLIONS of years of history. And the “scattered rocks” above the sand… that’s the petrified forest! When I’d been driving through the first time I’d been disappointed that there seemed to be so little of the forest left. Now I realized it had been all around me and I didn’t even realized it.

Behind the museum there is short trail (somewhat sheltered from the wind) that cuts between hundreds of petrified logs (some tens of feet long others barely stumps). The fact that the shapes of the petrified logs (which have been above ground and exposed to the elements for MILLIONS of years) are indistinguishable from a log fallen a year ago is incomprehensible to me. I loved getting near them and studying their shapes and colors.

This knowledge and experience changed everything about the park for me.

Rather than exiting onto the highway after finishing with the museum, I turned around and went backward, in order to drive the entire 30 mile road again. This time I went much, much more slowly, and saw everything in a new light. The decision immediately felt heavenly ordained when a rainbow spread across the sky.

As I left the park the whole experience got me thinking - how many times in my life have I rushed through something, believing myself to have “done it”, but actually having missed it? How many times have I’ve been so pleased with myself for the speed at which I arrived at my insight - seen true - but also completely missed what matters?

Every day of this trip I feel like the universe has been giving me an opportunity to confront my old stories and ways of being. In so doing, it’s giving me a choice - stay as I was, or change; hold onto my old beliefs, or let them go. For someone who is tempted by fear based decision making and wants to control - this is hard work! However, what I’m learning is that when I let go of my expectations, of my initial “insights”, of my need to control other’s perceptions of me, or my need to get to a conclusion quickly, and instead, simply sit with whomever (or whatever) I am with - and open myself to whatever they want to reveal - life is so much richer!

Upper Antelope Canyon

This post gives you: (1) tips on how to plan a trip here, (2) the story of my interactions with Logan, who grew up exploring the canyons before they were tourist destinations, and (3) my reflections on visiting one of the most iconic photography locations in the world with only an old iPhone. Read on below…

Upper Antelope Canyon

Upper Antelope Canyon

Before planning a trip to see the canyons there are a handful of things you need to know. First, you can’t just show up, you need to pay for a tour (and they book up in advance)! The canyons are owned by several Navajo families, and they have authorized only several tour companies to operate tours. Second, the tours aren’t cheap or very long (often just 1-2 hours). Third, the famous “beams of light” in Upper Antelope only occur for part of the year. They start in late spring and peak in June. Fourth, each slot isn’t that long in distance. If you were to walk through Antelope, Owl, or Rattlesnake Canyons without stopping it wouldn't take more than a few minutes. Fifth, depending on the time of day you go you may be jammed into Antelope canyon so many people it’ll feel like Disney World. (To deal with this they now sell “photography tours” at times when they limit the number of others in the canyon - for a premium). Sixth a different set of Navajo families own '“Lower Antelope Canyon”, so if you want to see that you have to book a completely different tour.

Taken together, does this mean don’t go? No way!

I loved my morning in and above the slots. I’ve never been in anything like them before. The shape of rocks, the colors, the shadows … even with others around was more than worth it. I also picked the time of my tour (early morning) and the tour company carefully to mitigate a number of the issues. (More on this below…)

The shadows in Upper Antelope Canyon were magical

The shadows in Upper Antelope Canyon were magical

Exploring Rattlesnake Canyon

Exploring Rattlesnake Canyon

After agonizing over which tour to take, I choose Antelope Canyon Photo Tours. It was expensive, but I had a fantastic morning! When the other family that was supposed to be part of my tour didn’t show up, my tour ended up being a private one. So I got all morning alone with Logan, a Navajo man who had grown up literally next to the canyons. He had so many stories of both him and his family camping, hiking, riding, and even partying in the slots (in the 1980s and 1990s). In addition to the nature, I was fascinated to hear about what his Navajo heritage meant to him, the debates they were having in the schools now around continuing to teach the language, the recent economic uptick in Page all due to Canyon tourism (apparently almost no one came to the Canyons before the late 1990s), the recent building of a $1,000+ / night Amman hotel near the canyons (my Best Western cost $59 by contrast and it was great), as well as the controversy over closing the local coal plant which locals believe is causing high cancer rates.

When we weren’t talking about those broader topics, he was a man on a mission! He had his tour down to an art. He moved fast, knew exactly where to stop, which angles to take pictures at, and what settings to use. He told me he’d stop more if I wanted, but I felt guilty slowing him down, even though I was the client! In retrospect, that is another good learning for me, and entirely consistent with the rest of my life I need to speak up for what I need versus always trying to appease whoever I’m with and silently feeling frustrated.

My guide. As you can see the geology is very different here than in the Upper Antelope Canyon with its overhangs that make you feel like you are in a cave

My guide. As you can see the geology is very different here than in the Upper Antelope Canyon with its overhangs that make you feel like you are in a cave

On the bright side, we had wonderful time talking and exploring for almost four hours through multiple slots, and other than Antelope Canyon, we were completely alone in all of these slots. My favorite was Mountain Sheep - which was the most remote (our giant truck almost got stuck multiple times on the way there and back).

My guide walking ahead into Mountain Sheep Canyon.

My guide walking ahead into Mountain Sheep Canyon.

At the back of the slot, after getting through all the usual paths, he asked me if I wanted to go “up and over, instead of back through the canyon”. Of course I did!

At times, it got to be a bit precarious. But it was more than worth it.

Here we had to grab hard on the bush to pull ourselves up. Definitely not on the normal trail… but take a look at the rock formations we found on the top in the next set of photos!

Here we had to grab hard on the bush to pull ourselves up. Definitely not on the normal trail… but take a look at the rock formations we found on the top in the next set of photos!

Looking down into Owl Canyon - on another one of our off road adventures (this one was less precarious). I wish someone was down there for scale. It was probably at least 20 feet from the top where I was standing to the bottom.

Looking down into Owl Canyon - on another one of our off road adventures (this one was less precarious). I wish someone was down there for scale. It was probably at least 20 feet from the top where I was standing to the bottom.

Not only were some of the views down into the slots breathtaking, but I also loved hearing how our scrambling made him think of his childhood and his brother. It was clear he looked up to his brother (even as an adult) - and had so many fond memories of adventuring with him when they were children.

The main disappointment of the morning was that I didn’t have my camera during any of the adventures, just an iPhone. On the bright side it opened up better conversation and the ability to be more adventurous. I also felt like I got some okay shots Antelope, but I know with my big camera and tripod it would have been totally different. Even though Upper Antelope Canyon is so well photographed, expensive to get into, and busy, I still want to come back later with all the right gear someday soon. (Also - to any photographers reading this - definitely use a wide angle lens!)

Near the entrance to Upper Antelope Canyon. We were lucky that no one else came into the canyon for more than 15 minutes after we entered it.

Near the entrance to Upper Antelope Canyon. We were lucky that no one else came into the canyon for more than 15 minutes after we entered it.

 

Little Colorado River Navajo Tribal Park

I found this place of pure wonder when I pulled off the road ~20 minutes to the east of the Grand Canyon National Park on highway 64. It was marked simply by a sign that said “scenic view”. From the road it was unclear what scenic view there’d be.

After a brief walk from the parking area the canyon edge, my jaw dropped. During all of my hiking in the National Park I only got brief glimpses of the lower canyons and the river below. I was mostly near the rim. Here, so close to the park entrance, everything was changed. It was all flat desert (with some mountains further away) and then just one, very deep cut into the desert that hid the River below. I hadn’t realized just now deep the lower canyons were, or the strange shapes the river twisted and turned.

I had plans to rush onward to Horseshoe Bend from there, but I found the view so arresting at the edge that I lingered for over an hour to watch the colors turn on the canyon walls.

Today was yet another affirmation that the best things in life often emerge when you leave space to be surprised, and are willing to say yes to adventures with unknown look-outs.

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When I left the sun had already set behind a small mountain range, however the ranges to both the east and the north held the light and glowed a vermillion hue for what felt like an hour as the rest of the world turned to darkness. I wish I’d been able to capture it, but I don’t think it could be captured photographically. The scale of it was too immense. Below is one photo I did grab on my iPhone when many miles later the road hugged near one of the ranges.

I apologize for the truly terrible iPhone photo, but it gives you a sense of how the rocks held the color more than an hour after sunset. These rocks were close. What was more remarkable for looking out to the horizon and seeing miles and miles and …

I apologize for the truly terrible iPhone photo, but it gives you a sense of how the rocks held the color more than an hour after sunset. These rocks were close. What was more remarkable for looking out to the horizon and seeing miles and miles and miles of mountains like this lit up from far away.